The staff seemed so relaxed that I asked if I could take a picture for my blog (which I could have done without asking, but the light was a bit low so I needed the flash). They started wincing: no pictures please, we don’t need any publicity. That’s when I understood they weren’t as cool as they seemed. Or maybe, too cool. Meanwhile, the boss greeted all his hip friends with handshakes and cries of pleasure (one out of two tables), but failed to ask us mere mortals whether we were enjoying our meal.
The food happened to be excellent (a starter of artichokes, juicy lentils and pork for the main course, fresh chocolate tart for dessert), but the elitist atmosphere was indigestible. How Parisian! I never get that impression when I’m at the American Joe Allen, the Argentinian Unico or the English Rose Bakery. We left without leaving a tip. I’ve seen behind the trendy restaurant scene – and there’s not much there.
Derrière, 69 rue des Gravilliers, Paris 3ème, métro Arts & Métiers, tel +33 (0) 1 44 61 91 95, main courses from 14 to 24 euros. Now it’s your turn to judge!